The end of the road…

Below are a few random images of Seville that just caught my eye or my imagination.

Walking back to the hotel, we visited two beautiful churches in the middle of the shopping district. The 18th-century chapel Capilla de San Jose and Iglesia San Antonio Abad that made me giggle, firstly because the signs looked as if they had come from a Chinese takeaway and once we entered all I could think of was “When shall we three meet again, in thunder, lightning, or in rain?”

In Santa Cruz, there are lots of restaurants, cafes, and souvenir shops as well as lovely houses that owners have adorned with beautiful plants, pretty courtyards and wrought iron balconies. Although it is easy to get lost here, forget a map, the best way to explore this charming neighbourhood is to get lost in its maze of narrow streets and enjoy the peace and beauty of the leafy squares. Getting lost is half the fun.

People being people

Some well-known and some not-so-well-known sights

And for the quizzers

• Seville is the capital of Andalucia
• Seville is home to the world’s biggest gothic cathedral
• Seville has three World Heritage Sites
• Seville was a filming location for Game of Thrones
• Seville claims to be the birthplace of tapas and flamenco
• Seville is home to Christopher Columbus’ final resting place
• Seville has its own secret motto ‘NO8DO’ that if you keep your eyes open can be seen everywhere 🙂

With no exaggeration, I believe Saville is one of the most beautiful cities in Europe, and I hope you have also enjoyed this journey.

“What do you think of graffiti”?

Do you see it as a mishmash of wonky letters and weird images that only serve to make neighbourhoods look shabby or do you see it as an art gallery in the streets.

For a long time, I only saw it as crappy, blobby, spray-painted vandalism, but then we went to Prague and on a walking tour learnt that graffiti wasn’t rebellious modern art but in fact dated back to both Ancient Greece and the Roman Empire when political statements were plastered into walls. I noticed some of it, not just the very old but the new as well was quite impressive. A little later, we went to Barcelona and again rather than see graffiti as defacement, I began to appreciate the talent that was involved in the beautifying of an abandoned building making the place vibrant and aesthetically pleasing. It was definitely more artistic than a lot of wall-scrawl I had been accustomed to seeing when I lived in the UK.

It was in Seville that I was finally convinced that this form of art is more than a hit-and-run job for the budding artist with a can of spray paint and a stencil. (I understand stencils are popular as art can be produced quickly and easily where graffiti is illegal).

I was drawn to wandering the streets and alleyways looking for “artistic expression” and what I stumbled across were blocks of the most incredible murals under bridges, on the backside of the main bus station and on the side of tower blocks. I noticed that throughout the city centre, graffiti was on the shutters of shops so only seen at certain times of day when the shutters were down. In many cases, while it may be provocative, bold and uncompromising it is also by the nature of its placement, a restricted expression of ideas and statements.

Not everyone can be a Banksy or a Basquiat but seek and ye shall find: and I found some good paint, some pretty paint and some artistically pleasing paint in Seville; I don´t think this is the typical graffiti you normally find in cities but I could be wrong. I also found some sad plain Jane graffiti where people had defaced amazing old doors. If you know me, you know I’m a sucker for old doors, gates etc. Shame on whoever decided to tag these.

Seville is known as the cultural capital of southern Spain and the city council plays an active and unusual role by allowing graffiti in certain areas. For several years they ran a competition painting recycle bins. This surely shows that you have to know what you’re doing to work out how to turn a flat painting into a three-dimensional one and at the same time promote recycling. Nice eh?

I am unable to credit the makers of the graffiti, apart from saying that whoever created them did a beautiful job and while the photos are good they don’t do this form of modern art justice – they really need to be seen ‘in the flesh’ to be fully appreciated!

Statues in Seville

Anyone who has ever followed my Facebook page knows that I am captivated by strange things. It may be doors, at the moment it is gates and somewhere in the back of my mind there are statues. Naturally, some are bronze, some religious and wondering the meaning of life these are OK but a bit stuffy what I really like are the quirky and Seville is full of very kind.

Starting with some of the most famous, according to the myth, Don Juan was known for his countless affairs with young Spanish women. We came across his statue in Plaza de los Refinadores and tried to imagine him being chased around these cobblestone streets by the authorities because most of these ladies were married. It is said that part of Don Juan’s adventures take place around the Santa Cruz area.

I think I mentioned it earlier when talking about Carmen and the Tobacco factory that on the street outside the Bull Ring was where Don José killed Carmen by stabbing her to death in a jealous rage. Looking at the drab statue of Carmen it doesn’t look anything like how I’d imagined her.

Nearby, the statue of a woman riding a horse is often mistaken for Carmen… except it isn’t her. It’s actually the Countess of Barcelona. She was the mother of Juan Carlos, King of Spain, and was a huge fan of bullfighting. There are also famous toreadors, or are they matadors, I don’t know or care as I have no interest at all in these people who kill for pain and pleasure.

 

We then made our way down the street to the Teatro de la Maestranza, where many ballets, operas, and concerts were performed. Outside is a statue of Mozart. Of course, he was most famous for operas set in the city of Seville, such as The Marriage of Figaro and Don Giovanni.

In the Jardines is a statue the 18th Duchess of Alba. I’ll admit I had no idea who she was, but I snapped a photo anyway. (I figured if she was important enough to have a statue, she must be worth Googling.) Turns out she is the current head of the House of Alba in the Spanish nobility, and holds a World Record as the noblewoman with the highest number of titles recognized by existing world governments! (Yawn)

 

The architect of this magnificent Plaza Espana Aníbal González may look very insignificant but he does hold 3 secrets. There are three hands of newly born children hidden on the statue. They are quite hard to find but very romantic looking for them. 

Some statues invoke romance, others even in days gone seemed destined to end up with the **** jobs.  Good job they had hats and not to just keep the sun off their heads.

Probably one of the most romantic is the reclining statue of the lady across the fountain with the inscription ‘Seville The poets of the Generation of 27’

We walked through a few neighbourhoods some had quirky statues outside their doors advertising what was on offer, Others were living statues, standing for hours in the blazing sun.

We wandered into a shady spot where kids were playing ball using empty cafe tables as goalposts. As I watched the ball headed to a small statue. At that point, because we had seen so many priests, monarchs and important citizens it took me a few seconds to understand this was something different.

On top of the pedestal sat a little girl perched on top of a pile of books. More books were scattered around at her feet and a few toys lay on the pedestal next to her. I found myself totally transfixed. The inscription on the pedestal said it was dedicated to the memory of Clara Campoamor “for her incalculable contribution to the work of women’s rights.” But who was Clara Campoamor? What had she done to deserve to be commemorated in the center of one of Europe’s most famous cities?

A few clicks on google shows that Clara Campoamor was best known for her campaigns for women’s suffrage in Spain. She is quoted as saying “Only he who does not consider women to be human would affirm that all human and civil rights should not be the same for women as for men,” Campoamor said “A Constitution that gives the vote to beggars, to servants, and to illiterates — of which there are some in Spain — cannot deny it to women.”

Her rhetoric proved convincing. In a quirk of the Spanish system, she was elected to the Spanish parliament, in 1931

Seville at Night

I mentioned at the beginning of my write-ups on Seville that the HOHO bus had two tours of the city by night. We didn’t go on either of these but did our own thing. If you visit during the summer, you could be forgiven for thinking the sun doesn’t set in southern Spain. Maybe that’s why nightlife goes late into the night it always seems busy with lots of restaurants and bars to choose from.

On our way back to bed we took a few photos I thought there were more but maybe I just deleted them due to shaky hands or too blurry. Well, we did spend quite a bit of time around the popular bars.

These are the only pictures we have at night of the cathedral and the beautiful stonework shimmering in the lights and where the whole area is at peace in the wee small hours before the start of another day.

When Flamenco Rhythm Starts to Play

As we are in the south of Spain where castanets click from coast to coast, naturally we planned an evening of tapas and a show. We were eager to see flamenco where it originated and as it turned out nothing could compare. Flamenco is in Seville’s blood and part of the city’s identity.

A tablao is a good way to see a live show there are literally dozens around some cheap, some expensive but all offer pretty good shows and many also offer a meal. But if like us you’re staying near the cathedral and the old town then it’s easy to catch a traditional flamenco performance at the Museo del Baile Flamenco (Flamenco Museum). It is a popular venue that has been around since the 18th century and as well as the flamenco shows, it is also a museum where you can learn about the history and culture of flamenco dances.

Our ticket gave access to the museum as well as the show which was followed by a short walking tour. I believe these days it is a self-guided tour using an app on your phone. We even had reduced pensionista tickets. Sadly not needing any ID just a quick look to say “Ah yes a couple of oldies”.

We had front-row seats and as the last rumbles of the crowd grew quiet the guitarist, singer and dancers approached the stage.

The music started and the singer, feeling every word, his face twisting with expression belted out the first song.

After a few moments, the dancers came on the small stage. Their movements were strong and slow. stamping, posturing and pouting in a rapid, aggressive, staccato style. Backs arched and arms flung above heads, flicking to the left and prancing to the right only to have them slowly and gracefully twirl for a few moments.

While I admire the male dancers for their precision, power and technique, for me, there’s nothing more beautiful than the female dancers, who whatever their age, and there are some old as well as young, ooze sensuality, passion, but most of all empowerment.

The music grew louder, the beat faster like a machine gun firing into the sky. The performers started clapping and stomping (their feet and hands keeping two different rhythms) as the dancers’ movements grew more deliberate and driven with intensity, quicker and more gracefully wild until the routine ended with lightning-fast footwork and the intensity reaching its highest peak.

I took several pictures and it was difficult to decide which one was the most dramatic the very act of expressing her passion with her body or her frown, her concentration or her hands in the air. I think I prefer to show her strength and suppleness.

Flamenco is not something to be missed it creates an intense emotion felt in both the performers and the audience watching.

Out on the Tiles in Seville

As mentioned in Triana the tiled facades are wonderful. Many depict scenes, of life as it was, or give an indication as to the business that is being run behind the closes shutters. My favourite is in Calle Tetuan – a car advertisement from 1924. I’m sure that the Sevillanos are so used to these wonderful works of art that they probably forget how amazing they are – but I certainly spent a long time gawping!

Some of the best pottery in Spain comes from here, not just tiles but pottery and crockery… It’s a real treat.

Seville was famous for its azulejos (ceramic tiles) since Roman times. Triana was the home to Seville’s famous tile workshops and potteries. Most of the tilework found in Seville’s churches was made in Triana such as the beautiful blue and yellow ceramic dome of the tiny Capilla-Carmen shining in the sun like a landmark. Even if you’re not into religion, it is difficult to not appreciate the detail in many of these displays, could this be called ‘Tile Heaven’

Several times we entered small entranceways and found beautiful tiled alcoves.

We stopped at the Farmacia de Santa Ana (or Farmacia de Aurelio Murillo) and peeked at the tile murals in the store. Gazed at fancy store signs and of course the Plaza de España.

The only place we didn´t manage to visit was the Ceramics Museum, but there is always another trip to look forward to.

The Gypsy Region called Triana

Every barrio in Seville is packed full of historical sites and Triano is no exception. The neighbourhood brims with history, charm and a distinct earthy creative identity. Once home to sailors, potters, flamenco dancers and bullfighters, the history of the city’s ‘Left Bank’ is as colourful as its buildings.

I had high hopes for Triana known as Seville’s gypsy quarter with its bohemian atmosphere. It’s a place that is always buzzing, always something going on, street markets, fairs and festivals with an authentic vibe.

It is a great way to start an evening as it comes alive with food and drink stalls lining the riverbank and tablaos and peñas that echo with the sounds of stamping feed and castanets.

The best way to enter is to cross the Isabel II Bridge. This bridge, has since the Middle Ages, connected the two parts of the city. Many people never crossed the Guadalquivir River when they visit Seville. There are just so many main sights to see. But us being us, we crossed to explore the Triana neighbourhood.

To the right of the bridge as you enter Triana, is the Mercado de Triana built right on top of the ruins of the former San Jorge Castle, the onetime headquarters of the Spanish Inquisition, where those believed to be heretics were imprisoned and burned at the stake.

It is one of those Spanish markets that is halfway between a traditional market and a gastronomic centre. It’s not one of those gentrified markets selling souvenirs, this is the real deal. It has everything from oysters and sushi to traditional tapas. Here you feel like a real local, with fruit and veg stalls and jamon and cheese stands selling the highest quality products.

There are also several fantastic little tapas bars and cafes which are perfect for a quick bite so needless to say we had tapas for lunch.

After lunch, we wandered through Triana and found some delightful small streets with interesting architecture and large squares with lots of outside seating. We looked up and admired the tiles that were everywhere. We also noticed that like Tenerife the area had lots of balconies, but whereas on our island they are made of wood here we found balconies of all shapes and sizes. Some were closed and others were open and decorated with intricate ironwork and often filled with flowers.

If you want a quiet walk, head to the Guadalquivir gardens. It’s no Alcazar, but there are some interesting monuments, including a maze with a lookout tower.

The five streets that makeup Soho Benita are an up-and-coming neighbourhood and Seville’s answer to London’s Soho. It’s packed with independent shops, selling clothes, furniture, artwork, jewellery and more.

You will also find a selection of ceramic shops and pottery workshops, several still make azulejos in the ancient way, though the clay no longer comes from the riverbanks. The Ceramic and Tile Museum dedicated to telling the history of the art is also here. The neighbourhood has a long tradition of making ceramics – Hand-painted bowls, pitchers and souvenir magnets are particularly popular.

Centuries have passed since Christopher Columbus set sail from Sevilla for the Americas. But as you stroll along the waterfront you can picture the scene as if it was yesterday and sail down the river in his wake, passing landmarks that paint a vivid picture of Spain’s Golden Age.

From its iconic pastel exterior to its medieval remnants and holy shrines, no trip to Sevilla can be complete without visiting Triana, this place has personality in abundance.

Plaza de España – Seville

Today the sun was shining, lighting up the buildings and casting long shadows in the narrow streets and we knew it would be a warm day as people rearranged the shade of the canopies on their balconies.

We were heading for the Plaza de España, one of Seville’s most easily recognised attractions. In 1929 Seville hosted the World Fair and numerous buildings were constructed for the exhibition in Maria Luisa Park, among them the Plaza.

The Plaza itself is a huge half-circle with buildings running around the edge accessible over a moat by numerous beautiful bridges and in the centre is a large fountain. Each region of Spain is represented in mosaics around the walls. There are always lots of photographers around and like them, we did our share of camera clicking. We were lucky and found a flamenco dancer and of course, we had to find and take a photo of the Canaries!

The whole square is eye-catching from a distance and it’s even more striking close up when you can clearly see all the intricately painted mosaic tiles that cover the benches and balconies it is truly a work of art.

While at the Plaza it is worth taking a stroll into the Maria Luisa park. Its gorgeous gardens were also designed for the expo in 1929 and it is good to have a five-minute sit down on one of its many shaded benches.

Yet again, the film buffs in our party did their bit – this time the Plaza was the location for both Star Wars and The Dictator starring Sacha Baron Cohen although us oldies were more familiar with seeing it in Lawrence of Arabia.

Leaving the park by the side entrance, we passed the University; formerly the tobacco factory on which Bizet’s Carmen is based and ended up back at the cathedral without getting lost.

And when it finally got to dinner time we feasted on Escudella a stew made with meat, beans, potatoes and garlic simple but magical. Of course, on every menu was crema Catalana, similar to crème brulee, but I only had room for this once while others just tucked in as pudding for them is the best part of the meal.

Italica

The next day we had breakfast in the Alameda de Hercules at the end of the road by the hotel. Our breakfasts were simple, coffee and bread, called coca encrusted with sugar and pine nut or soletilla and churros to be dunked in hot chocolate. Who could possibly resist – not me.

We were then collected by a taxi to take us to Italica to see the Roman ruins just outside of Seville. It is free to all EU residents so make sure you have some form of ID should you visit but even if you are not, the entrance is only €1.50. OH and I have been before and thought the kids would like a couple of hours there, as it was we spent 4 hours in this fascinating place with Ash being Spartacus and the rest of us channelling our inner Russell Crowe as we imagined what it would have been like to have been a warrior in the Amphitheatre. The result is I can’t remember which of these images were taken on our first visit and which on the second visit.

The site is unique as it wasn’t built over like many other Roman cities so much has been preserved, it was also the home of Emperor Hadrian, (he of wall fame).

And yet another useless fact about Game of Thrones and Seville. In autumn 2016, the film crew arrived for Season 7. The episode which featured Italica was the one in which three members of major houses have a historic meeting about a common enemy in the amphitheatre.

The Dragons Pit as seen in Game of Thrones

After sweltering in 28C it was over the road to a small cafe for a cooling drink and they ordered a taxi for us. €13 to go €20 for the return trip whether that included getting back to base, time of day or waiting in the horrendous Seville traffic I am not sure. However, it did show us another area of town which was very close to our hotel which we explored during the evening, tiny streets where the cars almost touch each side of the road.

As a perfect ending to a memorable day, we ate that night at La Mafia. Admittedly not very Spanish as the establishment not only pays tribute to Italy by offering its best recipes but also respects its traditional culinary customs.

Old Seville

The Barrio Santa Cruz district in the heart of Seville exudes history and romance. Its narrow streets, balconies draped in bougainvillaea and hidden courtyards conceal thousands of years of history.

I know it can be a rip-off for tourists due to the fact it is visited by millions who flock to Seville each year, but once you are aware that if you take a seat in a café you will not only be paying for a drink but the glass it comes in and not just for bread but also for the butter then there are no surprises. I still find this area fascinating.

Walking here is a sheer pleasure; it is awash with cobbled streets, so narrow they are called kissing lanes, medieval churches, convents, centuries-old food markets and plazas where the swaying palm trees block out the mid-day sun and where the noise level drops considerably from that found around the Cathedral and Alcazar. It deserves several different visits: first during the day to take in Callejon del Agua (Water Alley) and by night, to stroll through the maze of whitewashed buildings and alleyways before heading to a flamenco bar or stop at one of the many restaurants for tapas.

Contrasting with the narrow streets the Plaza Santa Cruz is one of the larger spaces. Although usually busy, there are places here to sit and relax and watch the world go by surrounded by the scent of roses and jasmine. In the centre of the square, the cross of Cerrajeria, from which the area takes its name, is a 17th-century metalwork and marks the place of the former church of Santa Cruz.

To get there we walked along a couple of busy main roads and then turned off into the tangled web of narrow streets and alleys that crisscross and dog leg in a confusing way and make following a street map impossible. A quick tip is that you need to keep your wits about you because these streets were not designed for vehicles and pedestrians end up dangerously close to traffic.

We had lunch or should I say more of a snack on fresh-from-the-oven empanadas filled with tuna and a soft, goat’s cheese served with honey and nuts. There are some lovely bars deep in the old town with hanging hams, traditional tiles and a few seats on the cobbled squares. For me, this area is the antique jewel in Seville’s crown.